• ANNOUNCEMENTS (INCLUDES QUOTE OF THE WEEK AND NEWS STORY OF THE WEEK)
  • THE EASY (COLOUR-CODED) GUIDE TO HOW TO REFERENCE A BOOK OR AN INTERNET SITE
  • COURSE INFORMATION
    • COURSE INFORMATION - ACADEMIC SUPPORT
    • COURSE INFORMATION - LEARNING OUTCOMES
    • COURSE INFORMATION - BLOOM'S TAXONOMY OF KNOWLEDGE
    • COURSE INFORMATION - BA1 HISTORICAL AND THEORETICAL STUDIES
    • COURSE INFORMATION - BA2 HISTORICAL AND THEORETICAL STUDIES
    • COURSE INFORMATION - BA3 HISTORICAL AND THEORETICAL STUDIES
  • PROJECT BRIEFS, INFORMATION AND SUBMISSION DATES
    • BA2 PROJECT BRIEFS AND SUBMISSION DATES
    • BA3 PROJECT BRIEFS AND SUBMISSION DATES
    • PROJECT BRIEF - RESEARCH FILE
    • PROJECT BRIEF - CRITICAL RESEARCH REPORT
    • PROJECT INFORMATION - CRITICAL RESEARCH REPORT STRUCTURE GUIDELINES
    • PROJECT BRIEF - REFLECTIVE JOURNAL
    • PROJECT BRIEF - ANNOTATED BIBLIOGRAPHY - NON-ASSESSED
    • PROJECT BRIEF - RESEARCH PROPOSAL needs doing...
    • PROJECT BRIEF - LITERATURE REVIEW - NON-ASSESSED
    • PROJECT BRIEF - GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION AND RESEARCH PRESENTATIONS 1, 2 AND 3 >
      • PROJECT BRIEF - GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION - NON-ASSESSED
      • PROJECT BRIEF - RESEARCH PRESENTATION 1 - ANNOTATED BIBLIOGRAPHY AND RESEARCH PROPOSAL needs visuals
      • PROJECT BRIEF - RESEARCH PRESENTATION 2 - INTRODUCTION, LITERATURE REVIEW, METHODOLOGY
      • PROJECT BRIEF - RESEARCH PRESENTATION 3 - DISCUSSION AND EVALUATION
  • REFERENCING - HARVARD PLEASE!
    • REFERENCING - WHAT IS REFERENCING?
    • REFERENCING (HARVARD) - USING CITATIONS AND QUOTATIONS
    • REFERENCING (HARVARD) - REFERENCE LIST/BIBLIOGRAPHY
    • REFERENCING (HARVARD) - HOW TO REFERENCE ANYTHING
  • BA1 CLASS READINGS AND VISUALS
    • BA1 CLASS READINGS - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATIONS >
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - CONSPICUOUS CONSUMPTION (THE REGULATION OF FASHION) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION (THE HISTORICAL ONE)
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - CONSUMER CULTURE (BEAU BRUMMELL) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION (THE PERSONAL ONE)
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - TRICKLE-DOWN/BUBBLE-(TRICKLE)-UP (JEANS) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION (THE EASY ONE)
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - GENDER AND SEXUALITY (STILETTOS) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION (THE SEXY ONE)
      • BA1 CLASS READING INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - SEMIOTICS (TIES) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION (THE DIFFICULT ONE)
    • BA1 CLASS VISUALS - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY >
      • BA1 CLASS VISUALS - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - CONSPICUOUS CONSUMPTION (THE REGULATION OF FASHION)
      • BA1 CLASS VISUALS - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - CONSUMER CULTURE (BEAU BRUMMELL)
      • BA1 CLASS VISUALS - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - TRICKLE-DOWN/BUBBLE-(TRICKLE)-UP (JEANS)
      • BA1 CLASS VISUALS - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - SEMIOTICS (STILETTOS)
      • BA1 CLASS VISUALS - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - SEMIOTICS (TIES)
    • BA1 CLASS READINGS - INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES AND CULTURE GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATIONS >
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES AND CULTURE - THE FABRIC OF EXISTENCE (TEXTILES IN HUMAN CONSCIOUSNESS) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES AND CULTURE - THE TIES THAT BIND (SOCIAL MEANINGS) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES AND CULTURE - CLOTH AND TEMPORAL POWER (MONEY, TRADE, STATUS AND CONTROL) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES AND CULTURE - CLOTH AS COMMUNICATION (MEANING, MESSAGES AND BEAUTY) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES AND CULTURE - TEXTILES AND THE SPIRIT (SACRED, SPIRITUAL AND HEALING SIGNIFICANCE) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
  • BA2 CLASS READINGS AND VISUALS
    • BA2 CLASS READINGS - FASHION IN SOCIETY GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATIONS >
      • BA2 CLASS READING - FASHION IN SOCIETY - VEILING GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - FASHION IN SOCIETY - THE SECOND HAND MARKET GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - FASHION IN SOCIETY - FEMINISM AND FASHION GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - FASHION IN SOCIETY - HOMOSEXUAL FASHION GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - FASHION IN SOCIETY - JAPANESE STREET FASHION GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - FASHION IN SOCIETY - FASHION IN INDIA GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
    • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - FASHION IN SOCIETY >
      • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - FASHION IN SOCIETY - THE SECONDHAND MARKET
      • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - FASHION IN SOCIETY - JAPANESE STREET FASHION
      • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - FASHION IN SOCIETY - INDIAN FASHION
    • BA2 CLASS READINGS - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATIONS >
      • BA2 CLASS READING - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - WEAVING AS POLITICAL SYMBOL (YOU ARE GOING TO LOVE THIS ONE) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - THE SUBVERSIVE STITCH GROUP SEMNAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - GANDHI AND KHADI CLOTH GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - THE FEMALE TRADITION OF TEXTILES GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - KNITTING AS ART GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
    • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY >
      • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - WEAVING AS POLITICAL SYMBOL
      • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - THE FEMALE TRADITION OF TEXTILES
      • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - THE SUBVERSIVE STITCH
  • BA3 CLASS READINGS
    • BA3 CLASS READING - THE FIVE STAGES OF REFLECTIVE WRITING
  • THEORY READINGS AND VISUALS (GENERAL REFERENCE TO SUPPORT YOUR RESEARCH)
    • THEORY READING - WHY STUDY FASHION?
    • THEORY READING - WHAT IS A THEORY?
    • THEORY READING - INTRODUCTION TO BA1 FASHION THEORY
    • THEORY READING - FASHION CYCLES (CONSPICUOUS CONSUMPTION, TRICKLE-DOWN/UP/ACROSS)
    • THEORY READING CLASS VISUALS - FASHION CYCYES (CONSPICUOUS CONSUMPTION, TRICKLE-DOWN/UP/ACROSS)
    • THEORY READING - KEY TERMS IN FASHION THEORY
    • THEORY READING - TEXTILE METAPHORS
  • FICTION READINGS (FOR WHEN YOU ARE BORED)
    • FICTION READING - ELIZABETH JANE HOWARD'S 'THE BEAUTIFUL VISIT'
    • FICTION READING - ANITA BROOKNER'S 'PROVIDENCE'
    • FICTION READING - RUMER GODDEN'S 'BLACK NARCISSUS'
    • FICTION READING - THE BROTHERS GRIMMS' 'HOW SOME CHILDREN PLAYED AT SLAUGHTERING'
    • FICTION READING - THOMAS HARDY'S 'JUDE THE OBSCURE' - THE PIG SLAUGHTERING (NOT FOR VEGETARIANS OR THE FAINTHEARTED)
    • FICTION READING - THE BROTHERS GRIMMS' 'RUMPELSTILTSKIN'
    • FICTION READING - GREEK MYTHOLOGY'S 'THESEUS AND THE MINOTAUR'
    • FICTION READING - GREEK MYTHOLOGY'S 'PROKNE AND PHILOMELA'
    • FICTION READING - DAWN FRENCH'S 'A TINY BIT MARVELLOUS'
  • MATHS READINGS (FOR WHEN YOU ARE REALLY BORED)
    • MATHS READING - PI (FOR GEEKS)
    • MATHS READING - ON LABOUR'S PROPOSAL TO MAKE MATHS COMPULSORY POST-16 (HE'S GOT A POINT)
    • MATHS READING - WHY WE NEED PYTHAGORAS (WHAT DOES LILY ALLEN KNOW?) ​
    • MATHS READING - FORMULA FOR WORKING OUT AGATHA CHRISTIE WHODUNNIT (I THOUGHT THIS WAS AN APRIL FOOL)
    • MATHS READING - ORDER AND PATTERN AS THE BASIS OF EVERYTHING (ARTY) ​
    • MATHS READING - WRITER SHIRLEY CONRAN'S MATHS EBOOK FOR GIRLS (I FAILED MATHS TWICE)
    • MATHS READING - RELATIVITY VERSUS QUANTUM MECHANICS (I ACTUALLY UNDERSTOOD SOME OF THIS)
    • MATHS READING - WHY WE SHOULD ALL LEARN COMPUTER CODING (VERY LONG... IF YOU MANAGE TO GET TO THE END OF IT I WILL BUY YOU A DRINK)
    • MATHS READING - DO WE REALLY NEED MATHS? (SAYS IT ALL)
    • MATHS READING - THE 'BEAUTY' OF EINSTEIN (I LOST THE WILL TO LIVE)
  • MY RESEARCH BLOGS AND RESEARCH PINTEREST
  • MY REFLECTIVE JOURNAL
  • DYSLEXIA (INCLUDES THE BRITISH DYSLEXIA ASSOCIATION ADULT CHECKLIST)
  • ARE YOU STRESSED?
    • ARE YOU STRESSED? - WRITERS' BLOCK
    • ARE YOU STRESSED? - MANAGING STRESS
    • ARE YOU STRESSED? - PINTEREST FOR STRESS
  • TO DO
  • REFERENCES
  • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES - GLOBAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL
    • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES PROGRAMME - GLOBAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL
    • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES PROJECT BRIEF - GLOBAL FASHION AND TEXTILE MANUFACTURING REPORT 2014-15
    • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES CLASS - GLOBAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL - INTRODUCTION TO CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY
    • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES CLASS - THE ALTERNATIVE PROJECT BRIEF
    • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES CLASS - GLOBAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL - PEST AND CSR
    • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES CLASS - GLOBAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL - ETHICS AND DISSERTATION
    • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES CLASS READING - GLOBAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL - GLOBALIZATION ​
    • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES CLASS READING - GLOBAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL - ENVIRONMENTAL
    • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES CLASS READING - GLOBAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL - ETHICAL
  • THE REFERENCING TEST
  BCOT BA Textiles for Fashion
Historical and Theoretical Studies theory classes and readings.

BA1 - COCO CHANEL AND MODERNISM FOLLOW UP

28/11/2013

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QUOTE OF THE WEEK

http://quoteoftheweekblog.tumblr.com



NEWS STORY OF THE WEEK

http://newsstoryoftheweekblog.tumblr.com



AIMS

  1. To introduce my new puppy (which one should I choose?)
  2. To follow up Coco Chanel and Modernism (what we missed out).
  3. Research presentations.
  4. ARE YOU STRESSED? PAGES

1. MY NEW PUPPY


Which one should I choose tonight?!?

Picture
Picture
Picture
HOW CAN I CHOOSE?I?

Puppies on YouTube


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=coFJmUZt6o0


2. COCO CHANEL AND MODERNISM FOLLOW UP (WHAT WE MISSED)

CONTEMPORARY CHANEL AS POSTMODERNISM

Whereas Modernism was characterised by logic, simplicity, a break from history and functionality, the Postmodern age dispensed with linearity in favour of eclecticism, parody and cultural hybridity (Mackenzie, 2009, p.122).


FROM MY RESEARCH BLOG

http://bcottextilesforfashion.weebly.com/2/post/2013/10/fashion-scrapbook-chanel-at-paris-fashion-week-includes-slideshow.html



Picture


Chanel autumn/winter 13/14 



3. RESEARCH PRESENTATIONS

5 December = Charlotte, Danielle, Sam, Lauren, Karen.


12 December = Tracy, Julia, Josh, Nicole.


4. ARE YOU STRESSED? PAGES


See above...

CONCLUSION


See also from Barbara Pym

For who can produce a really scholarly work when he is sitting shivering in a too heavy overcoat, struggling all the time against the temptation to go out and get himself a warming cup of coffee?' (Pym, 2009, p.77).

Maslow's Hierarchy of Needs and lunchtime.

WHAT HAVE YOU LEARNED?

WHAT HAVE I LEARNED?

Get a  puppy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIgiMZce8e0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jJPzMgfbEc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GizOlkCq7us


REFERENCES


Cochrane, L. (2013) 'Chanel at Paris fashion week: a cool collection inspired by art', Guardian 1 October [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/oct/01/paris-fashion-week-chanel-show-karl-lagerfeld-art (Accessed 2 October 2013).

Mackenzie, M. (2009) …Isms understanding fashion. New York: Universe. 



Pym, B. (2009) Some tame gazelle. London: Virago.

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BA1 AND BA2 SETTING THE RESEARCH PRESENTATION (BA2 FEMINISM AND FASHION GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION)

20/11/2013

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QUOTE OF THE WEEK
http://quoteoftheweekblog.tumblr.com


NEWS STORY OF THE WEEK
http://newsstoryoftheweekblog.tumblr.com


AIMS


  1. To debate via small group work.
  2. To set the research presentations.
  3. To discuss the project briefs and study skills.


1. SMALL GROUP WORK - THREE MORE QUOTES FROM DORIS LESSING ABOUT EDUCATION

She had done well at school, and went to an arts college where she became a graphic designer, which seemed an agreeable way of spending her time until she married. (Lessing, 1989, p.11).

He wasn't learning anything, but then plenty of children did not: they put in time at school, that was all. (Lessing, 1989, p.128).



As everyone knows, all these schools have a layer, like a sediment, of the uneducable, the unassimilable, the hopeless, who move up the school from class to class, waiting for the happy moment when they can leave.(Lessing, 1989, p.145).


FROM MY RESEARCH BLOG

http://bcottextilesforfashion.weebly.com/2/post/2013/11/society-scrapbook-medical-students-to-study-the-arts.html


2. RESEARCH PRESENTATIONS

Research presentations on 5 and 12 December.

See PROJECT BRIEF - RESEARCH PRESENTATION PAGE

Research file, research proposal and annotated bibliography to be submitted at the time of the research proposal.

You will be assessed on the research presentation and research file, but not on the research proposal and annotated bibliography....

3. STUDY SKILLS - WRITING A RESEARCH PROPOSAL AND ANNOTATED BIBLIOGRAPHY


See STUDY SKILLS - WRITING A RESEARCH PROPOSAL AND STUDY SKILLS - ANNOTATED BIBLIOGRAPHY PAGES

BA2 GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATIONS


From last week - Veiling?


Feminism and Fashion - Lucy and Helen.


My quotes from this week's reading

Is fashionable dress part of the oppression of women, or is it a form of adult play? (Wilson, E. in Welters, L. and Lillethun, 2011, p.324).


This unresolved tension marks a number of feminists debates, for example the debate about heterosexual love, the controversies over pornography and romantic fiction, and the debate about dress and feminist attitudes to personal adornment ... (Wilson, E. in Welters, L. and Lillethun, 2011, p.324).


... the thesis is that fashion is oppressive, the antithesis that we find it pleasurable ... (Wilson, E. in Welters, L. and Lillethun, 2011, p.324).


REFERENCES

Lessing, D. (1989) The fifth child. London: Paladin.



Pugh, R. (2013) 'Art and literature could make doctors more competent and humane', Guardian 19 November [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/society/2013/nov/19/studying-arts-literature-doctors-humane-competent-mid-staffs (Accessed 19 November 2013).



Wilson, E. in Welters, L. and Lillethun, A. (eds.) (2011) The fashion reader. 2nd end. Oxford: Berg.
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BA1 - COCO CHANEL AND MODERNISM

14/11/2013

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QUOTE OF THE WEEK
http://quoteoftheweekblog.tumblr.com

NEWS STORY OF THE WEEK
http://newsstoryoftheweekblog.tumblr.com


AIMS


  1. To develop small group work.
  2. To introduce Coco Chanel and Modernism (new materials, new style, simplification of form).
  3. To introduce the democratization of fashion. 
  4. To introduce body image.


Pinterest visuals

http://www.pinterest.com/pcourtenay1/ba1-theory-coco-chanel-and-modernism/

BUT BEFORE ANYTHING HERE IS AN EXAMPLE OF A REFLECTIVE BLOG

tumblr.com/blog/katycruickshankreflective



1. SMALL GROUP WORK -EXTENDING THE QUOTE OF THE WEEK


IN PAIRS CONSIDER THE FOLLOWING QUOTES


WHAT DO THEY SAY ABOUT READING?


“None of these books agree with each other.” (Bradbury, 2008, p.52).


And I thought about books. And for the first time I realised that a man was behind each one of the books. A man had to think them up. A man had to take a long time to put them down on paper. (Bradbury, 2008, pp.68-69).


“Do you know that books smell like nutmeg or some spice from a foreign land? ” (Bradbury, 2008, p.106).



“Books can be beaten down with reason.” (Bradbury, 2008, pp.109-110).


'“What traitors books can be! You think they're backing you up, and they turn on you. Others can use them, too, and there you are, lost in the middle of the moor, in a great welter of nouns and verbs and adjectives.” (Bradbury, 2008, p.139).



2. COCO CHANEL AND MODERNISM 


MODERNISM - NEW MATERIALS

Picture









Eiffel Tower 1889


Modernism is an umbrella term for a number of movements united in their rejection of historicism during the early 20th century. Modernists embraced progress and sought to enhance human experience of the modern age by breaking with the past ... (Mackenzie, 2009, pp.74-75).

Picture
Rayon


Picture
Jersey


In addition, new comfortable fluid fabrics in a neutral palette of navy, black, beige and grey were utilised. (Mackenzie, 2009, pp.74-75).


TODAY'S NEW MATERIALS AND TECHNOLOGY FROM MY RESEARCH BLOG


http://bcottextilesforfashion.weebly.com/2/post/2013/07/design-scrapbook-3d-printer-available-in-high-street.html


MODERNISM - NEW STYLE

Picture

Coco Chanel with bobbed hair, 1920

Picture
Chanel evening dress, 1925


This new androgynous style was christened the 'garconne' look and dominated fashion until 1929. Hemlines were raised significantly, peaking in 1926 at just below the knee; waistlines dropped towards the hips; hair was bobbed, shingled or even cropped ... (Mackenzie, 2009, pp.74-75).


MODERNISM - SIMPLIFICATION OF FORM

Picture

Chanel dress, 1927


She is credited with introducing the 'little black dress' and promoting the principle of simplicity as elegance. (Mackenzie, 2009, pp.74-75). 

Picture
Chanel dress, 1924


COMPARE CHANEL TO CHARLES WORTH

Picture
Worth wedding dress, 


COMPARISON OF UNDERWEAR HIGHLIGHTS SIMPLIFICATION OF FORM

Picture
Victorian corset, 1880s


Picture
Chemise, 1920s


SIMPLIFICATION OF FORM IN ARCHITECTURE

Picture
Bauhaus building, 1920s


3. DEMOCRATIZATION OF FASHION

MASS MARKET

In keeping with the spirit of Modernism, and aided by the development of rayon and the simple shapes of the garments, rapid dissemination of styles was made possible. What was shown in the couture salons was soon readily available to the mass market via copy houses or paper patterns. (Mackenzie, 2009, pp.74-75).


BUT

Picture
Chanel jacket detail


Chanel deviated from the elitist nature of haute couture both by creating a 'working-class look' through her choice of non-luxuriant fabric - her inspiration being drawn primarily from working-class male attire - and by embracing a philosophy of copying and mass production, which denied exclusiveness and uniqueness. ...

she aimed to create an image of middle-class informality rather than emphasising the affectations of the upper classes, yet her garments were consistently priced in a bracket far above the economic means of the average working girl. ... Despite the apparent lack of what Veblen (1965) refers to as 'conspicuous consumption' in her garments, hems were always hand-rolled and weighted chains were inserted into the backs of the jackets. When she dressed her clients in garments of austere simplicity, she would then heap strands of costume jewellery around their necks, on their wrists, hands and ears. (English, 2013, p.41).




SEE ALSO WILLIAM MORRIS (HAND MANUFACTURE - V - SOCIALISM)
Picture
William Morris textile, 1880s

4. BODY IMAGE

1920s CHANGE IN STYLE ALTERED IDEAS OF FEMALE FORM 

The new fashion demanded a radical shift in the ideal female form and women endeavoured to become lithe and youthful with a flat bust, no hips and a childlike slenderness. Corsets were replaced by roll-on, reinforced 'flattners' and dieting was vigorously promoted as the best way to achieve a fashionable physique. (Mackenzie, 2009, pp.74-75).


FROM THE BODY IMAGE SCRAPBOOK ON MY RESEARCH BLOG


http://bcottextilesforfashion.weebly.com/2/post/2013/11/body-image-scrapbook-the-thigh-gap.html


http://bcottextilesforfashion.weebly.com/2/post/2013/11/body-image-scrapbook-size-16-mannequins.html



CONCLUSION


CONTEMPORARY CHANEL AS POSTMODERNISM

Whereas Modernism was characterised by logic, simplicity, a break from history and functionality, the Postmodern age dispensed with linearity in favour of eclecticism, parody and cultural hybridity (Mackenzie, 2009, p.122).

FROM MY RESEARCH BLOG


http://bcottextilesforfashion.weebly.com/2/post/2013/10/fashion-scrapbook-chanel-at-paris-fashion-week-includes-slideshow.html


Picture
Chanel autumn/winter 13/14 


WHAT HAVE YOU LEARNED?


WHAT HAVE I LEARNED?



Get a system. Finishing this at 6.53am this morning was much easier because I know what i am doing...


REFERENCES

Bradbury, R. (2008) Fahrenheit 451. London: Harper Collins.

Cochrane, L. (2013) 'Chanel at Paris fashion week: a cool collection inspired by art', Guardian 1 October [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/oct/01/paris-fashion-week-chanel-show-karl-lagerfeld-art (Accessed 2 October 2013).

English, B. (2013) A cultural history of fashion in the 20th and 21st centuries. 2nd edn. London: Bloomsbury.



Halliday, J. (2013) 'Debenhams to display size 16 mannequins across UK stores', Guardian 6 November [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/business/2013/nov/06/debenhams-first-department-store-size-16-models (Accessed 11 November 2013).

Mackenzie, M. (2009) …Isms understanding fashion. New York: Universe. 

Neville, S. (2013) 'First 3D printer reaches high street', Guardian 8 July [Online]. Available at: http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/2013/jul/08/maplin-high-street-first-3d-printer (Accessed 9 July 2013).



Swash, R. (2013) ' How the "thigh gap" became the latest pressure point on a woman's self-image', Guardian 3 November [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2013/nov/03/thigh-gap-pressure-point-women-self-esteem (Accessed 7 November 2013).
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BA1 - SMALL GROUP TUTORIALS FOR REFLECTIVE JOURNAL AND RESEARCH FILE

7/11/2013

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QUOTE OF THE WEEK
http://quoteoftheweekblog.tumblr.com


NEWS STORY OF THE WEEK
http://newsstoryoftheweekblog.tumblr.com



AIMS


To help, bully, beg you to get started (if you have not).

TIMETABLE

9 - 9.30 = Charlotte and Danielle
9.30 - 10 = Sam and Lauren
10 - 10.30 = Josh, Nicole, Karen

Please have your blog link ready to show me. 


CLASS READING - THE 5 STAGES OF REFLECTIVE WRITING


How did you get on with the reading?


How are you getting on with your blogs?


TWO MORE QUOTES FROM THIS WEEK'S QUOTE OF THE WEEK BOOK

It is more difficult than I had imagined, setting down things that happened so long ago. I question the accuracy of my memory. (Twan Eng, 2013, p.113).

I discovered how much clutter bounced around in my head. (Twan Eng, 2013, p.157).



RESEARCH FILE


See STUDY SKILLS - WHAT IS RESEARCH PAGE


REFERENCE


Twan Eng, T. (2013) The garden of evening mists. London: Canongate.
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BA1 - PAUL POIRET AND ORIENTALISM (AWAY, STUDENTS TO LOOK AT THIS ONLINE)

17/10/2013

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QUOTE OF THE WEEK
http://quoteoftheweekblog.tumblr.com


NEWS STORY OF THE WEEK
http://newsstoryoftheweekblog.tumblr.com


AIMS


  1. To develop the reflective journal.
  2. To introduce Paul Poiret and Orientalism.
  3. To introduce fashion as a cultural experience.



I AM NOT IN TODAY SO YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN. I DO NOT HAVE TIME TO INSERT THE PICTURES. LOOK AT THE QUOTATIONS BELOW TAKEN FROM THIS WEEK'S CLASS READING AND THEN SEE MY PINTEREST BOARD:


http://www.pinterest.com/pcourtenay1/ba1-theory-paul-poiret-and-orientalism/

1. REFLECTIVE JOURNAL

QUOTE OF THE WEEK suggests the need for privacy in writing.

REFLECTIVE JOURNALS need to be online but you can always use the privacy settings to make them private.

See also from this week's book:


By this time I had a diary - all the girls at school had them, it was a retro craze: people could hack your computer, but they couldn't hack a paper book. I wrote all of this down in my diary. It was like talking to someone. (Atwood, 2010, p.263).

What does this suggest about the role of diaries and journals?

2. PAUL POIRET AND ORIENTALISM


Orientalism

In its broadest sense, Orientalism is the fanciful depiction and adoption, in the West, of styles from the imagined Near, Middle and Far East. (MacKenzie, 2009, p.70).



Theatrical influence


the catalyst that transformed this trend into a craze was the 1910 production of 'Scherezade' by Diaghilev's Ballet Russes. The sets and costumes designed by Leon Bakst transformed traditional ballet into a theatrical explosion which utilised dazzling colour within the revolutionary stage sets and extraordinary costumes. ... (Mackenzie, 2009, p.70).


Poiret


The Parisian couturier Paul Poiret was at the centre of this, ... He designed harem pantaloons; models wore jewel-coloured turbans decorated with exotic plumes and heavy ornamentation; and rich fabrics were imported from the East. Poiret revived the use of luxurious Byzantine textiles and commissioned the Fauvist painter Raoul Dufy to design prints for him. (Mackenzie, 2009, p.71).


3. FASHION AS A CULTURAL EXPERIENCE

fashion became theatre in the auditoriums and theatrettes of major department stores. Often these venues seated between 100 and 1,500 people. This was particularly prevalent in America, where ... couture garments fashioned for the American market were promoted as part of a public cultural experience. (English, 2013, p.23).


CONCLUSION


We now talk about 'globalism'.

The world is a smaller place.



See:

http://bcottextilesforfashion.weebly.com/2/post/2013/09/fashion-scrapbook-african-textiles-on-the-catwalk.html


Plus this week's NEWS STORY OF THE WEEK.

WHAT HAVE YOU LEARNED?


WHAT HAVE I LEARNED?


Pinterest is fantastic. I could have got all the images I needed for Paul Poiret from:


http://www.pinterest.com/wistairechan/designers-paul-poiret-18791944/

REFERENCES


Atwood, M. (2010) The year of the flood. London: Virago.


English, B. (2013) A cultural history of fashion in the 20th and 21st centuries. 2nd edn. London: Bloomsbury.

Mackenzie, M. (2009) …Isms understanding fashion. New York: Universe. 

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BA1 - CHARLES WORTH AND HAUTE COUTURE

9/10/2013

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QUOTE OF THE WEEK
http://quoteoftheweekblog.tumblr.com


NEWS STORY OF THE WEEK
http://newsstoryoftheweekblog.tumblr.com


AIMS

  1. To reflect on the reflective journal.
  2. To introduce the french Haute Couture system.
  3. To introduce fashion and celebrity.
  4. To introduce fashion theory (conspicuous consumption).

1. REFLECTIVE JOURNAL

GIBB'S REFLECTIVE CYCLE

Description - record significant learning situations and events.

Feelings - record your reactions to these situations and events.

Evaluation - consider the positive and negative aspects of the experience.

Analysis - consider how the learning processes within academic research compare to the learning processes within studio practice. 

Conclusion - summarise what you have learned and how you might respond in future. (McMillan and Weyers, 2013, pp.33-34).

See STUDY SKILLS REFLECTIVE THINKING AND WRITING PAGE for more information.

Read this FASHION FICTION QUOTE POST from RESEARCH BLOG:

http://bcottextilesforfashion.weebly.com/2/post/2013/06/book-quote-dressmaking.html

Discuss and reflect on your reading/learning experience in pairs.

Reflective journal from You Tube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxtKMTNPWZY


Keeping a Journal. W. Cleon Skousen, 1996


Study skills Pinterest:

http://www.pinterest.com/pcourtenay1/study-skills-plus-videos/

2. HAUTE COUTURE

What do you remember from this week's CLASS READING - CHARLES WORTH AND HAUTE COUTURE?

Historical and technical (easy)?
Social and theoretical (difficult)?



Watch this as a reminder:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZOe6Nsf-KGA

The Work Song from Cinderella

Charles Frederick Worth is credited with founding and formalising the modern Haute-Couture industry, crystallising the role of the designer as an arbiter of style and raising the status of dressmaking from anonymous trade to artistic endeavour. ...


From his outset he cultivated an exclusive image. In contrast to existing dressmakers he elevated his own status to that of an artist to whose judgement his customers were forced to defer. Coupled with his unparalleled dressmaking skills, this earned his creations the nomenclature 'Haute Couture' - literally, high dressmaking. (Mackenzie, 2009, p.44).

The Worth style:

Worth's designs were characterised by his use of lavish materials, and his early gowns were distinguished by the use of the crinoline. Historical references are also evident in his designs and were likely influenced by time spent perusing the art galleries of London and Paris. 'Leg o' mutton' sleeves, his last great contribution to the fashion of the 19th century, were based on those worn in the Elizabethan era. (Mackenzie, 2009, p.47).

Picture
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Worth_Dress_view_2.jpg

Court presentation dress


Picture
http://news.bbc.co.uk/cbbcnews/hi/newsid_6300000/newsid_6305400/6305491.stm


Cinderella dress


Picture
http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/c/corsets-and-crinolines-in-victorian-fashion/

Crinoline cage c.1860

Pinterest underwear:

http://www.pinterest.com/pcourtenay1/underwear/



Picture
https://thepragmaticcostumer.wordpress.com/2013/08/08/



Worth wedding dress with leg of mutton sleeves, c.1896


Picture








http://tudorhistory.org/elizabeth/gallery.html

The Darnley portrait of Elizabeth I, unknown artist c. 1575

Elizabethan leg of mutton sleeves



3. FASHION AND CELEBRITY

Worth's reputation and success were cemented when Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III, admired one of his creations and instructed him to supply her with gowns. So impressed was she that by 1864 Worth had become responsible for all her state and evening wear. Considering that state balls were frequent, no gown could be worn twice and with most ladies wishing to emulate the princess, Worth could easily be asked to supply in excess of a thousand different gowns for a single event. (Mackenzie, 2009, p.44).


Picture
http://www.napoleon.org/en/essential_napoleon/key_painting/files/winterhalter_eugenie_ladies.asp


The Empress Eugenie surrounded by her ladies in waiting, Franz Xaver Winterhalter, 1855



Picture
http://www.vogue.com/vogue-daily/article/kate-middletons-wedding-dress/#1

Kate Middleton and her sister Pippa, 2011

See also Kate leaving hospital FASHION SCRAPBOOK POST from RESEARCH BLOG:



http://bcottextilesforfashion.weebly.com/2/post/2013/07/july-24th-2013.html


4. CONSPICUOUS CONSUMPTION

For centuries, royal courts used fashion as a means of publicising their superiority, strength and influence across Europe. Louis XIV, for example, demanded that his courtiers pay scrupulous attention to their grooming, and insisted on the conspicuous display of finery at all palace events.

In 'The Theory of the Leisure Class', originally published in 1899, he (Thornstein Veblen)
maintains - making reference to Victorian female trappings - that 'the hindrances of women's dress .. is evidence of her economic dependence on a man, and is reflective of male pecuniary strength in society' (Veblen 1965). (English, 2013, pp.5-6).


Picture
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Louis_XIV_of_France.jpg



Louis XIV , Hyacinthe Rigaud, 1701


French court as conspicuous consumption


Picture
http://www.tate.org.uk/search/tissot

'The gallery of HMS Calcutta (Portsmouth), James Tissot, 1876



Picture
http://www.tate.org.uk/search/tissot

The ball on shipboard, James Tissot, 1874


Victorian dress as conspicuous consumption


Picture
http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/sep/24/milan-fashion-week-10-point-guide

Dolce and Gabbana Centurion coin dress, spring 2014

Literal conspicuous consumption from Milan fashion week


CONCLUSION

Remember the Anita Brookner reading. 

This was the Quote of the Week from it:

http://quoteoftheweekblog.tumblr.com/post/53759407365/quote-of-the-week-24-6-13-anita-brookner-yet

WHAT HAVE YOU LEARNED?

WHAT HAVE I LEARNED?


I am still doing this at 6am...

REFERENCES

Brookner, A. (1983) Providence. London: Triad Grafton.



Cartner-Morley, J. (2013b) 'Kate gets the Lindo Steps Look spot on', Guardian 23 July [Online]. Available at: http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk-news/2013/jul/23/kate-duchess-cambridge-jenny-packham-dress (Accessed 24 July 2013).

English, B. (2013) A cultural history of fashion in the 20th and 21st centuries. 2nd edn. London: Bloomsbury.

Mackenzie, M. (2009) …Isms understanding fashion. New York: Universe. 

McMillan, K. and Weyers, J. (2013) How to improve your critical thinking and reflective skills. Harlow: Pearson.

Murdoch, I. (1979) The sandcastle. London: Triad/Panther.

Moore, S. (2013d) 'David Bowie's top-100 reading list is virtually poetry in itself', Guardian 2 October [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2013/oct/02/david-bowie-top-100-reading-list (Accessed 4 October 2013).


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BA1, 2 and 3 - LEARNING OUTCOMES AND PROJECT BRIEFS/STUDY SKILLS

2/10/2013

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QUOTE OF THE WEEK
http://quoteoftheweekblog.tumblr.com


NEWS STORY OF THE WEEK
http://newsstoryoftheweekblog.tumblr.com


AIMS


  1. To introduce course outcomes.
  2. To follow up last week's introduction to fashion and critical debate.
  3. To introduce the project briefs/study skills.


1. COURSE OUTCOMES

See COURSE INFORMATION - LEARNING OUTCOMES PAGE.


Learning outcomes the same for each year except:

BA1 To show analysis of research. 

BA2 To show analysis and synthesis of research.  

BA3 To show analysis, synthesis and evaluation of research. 



This heirarchy of knowledge relates to Bloom's Taxonomy.


See COURSE INFORMATION - BLOOM'S TAXONOMY PAGE.

This course has been re-validated and the learning outcomes have been rewritten. 

This is a previous learning outcome which has been omitted:


Have demonstrated knowledge of and engagement with the environmental and ethical issues surrounding all stages of the development and production of fashion and textiles.

It has been omitted because we are assuming that we all now know to be aware of environmental and ethical issues.



Picture


However Psycho ward costume controversy from last week's Guardian:

The costume had the word "Committed" printed on the back, while the accompanying description on the website exhorted people: "Dress up as the most thrilling psycho killer character of all time in this Psycho Ward costume, consisting of a bright orange, long-sleeved boiler suit  with zip fastener to front, 'Psycho Ward' printed on the chest. The same words [are] printed on the back in larger letters with a prominent 'Committed' stamp just below."

In a statement, Tesco said: "We are really sorry for any offence this has caused and we are removing this product from sale."
(Smithers and Jones, 2013).



Those defending these costumes say they are a bit of fun and we should lighten up. They are not a bit of fun. They are offensive. They commercialise prejudice and stereotype and they reinforce stigma. (Campbell, 2013).


2. FOLLOW UP TO LAST WEEK'S DISCUSSION ON MUSLIM VEIL


More imagery of veil from news stories not to do with veiling.


How positive or negative (ethical) are these stories and this imagery?



Picture
Economic development of women


Saudi Arabia tops the list of countries for laws that limit women's economic potential (Reuters, 2013a).

Picture


Muslim child abuse

This month a new voice was added to the ongoing debate on child sexual exploitation: Asian and Muslim young women who have endured months and sometimes years of sexual violence and who have not been afforded the protection or attention that their treatment warranted. The cases outlined in the report Unheard Voices, published by the Muslim Women's Network UK, paint a damning picture of the sexual abuse of children. (Firmin, 2013).

Picture
Saudi Arabia and women drivers


In an interview published on Friday on the website sabq.org, Sheikh Saleh bin Saad al-Lohaidan, a judicial adviser to an association of Gulf psychologists, said women aiming to overturn the ban on driving should put "reason ahead of their hearts, emotions and passions".

Lohaidan's strong endorsement of the ban demonstrates how entrenched the opposition is to women driving among some conservative Saudis. (Reuters, 2013b).



3. PROJECT BRIEFS/STUDY SKILLS

BA1

Independent research is an important part of Historical and Theoretical Studies assessment.

For this week you were asked to look at the Quote of the Week and News Story of the Week blog and also to read a Vogue article from my Weebly research blog.

These are my ongoing research blogs.

They are time-consuming but always useful for these classes and have already been used today.

See PROJECT BRIEF - RESEARCH FILE and PROJECT BRIEF - REFLECTIVE JOURNAL PAGE.



RESEARCH FILE = paper, but can also include a blog and/or Pinterest.


REFLECTIVE JOURNAL = online blog.

See BA1 CLASS READING FOR 3/10/13 - HOW DO YOU DECIDE WHAT TO WEAR?


Dad fashion from this week's Guardian: 

The older you get, the more important fashion gets because it is the only thing that will stop you looking like a total wreck. You cannot afford bad clothes any more. You can only afford good clothes. (Lott, 2013).


Picture
http://chicquero.com/2011/08/14/fathers-day-in-brazil/


Cool Dads


BA2

Independent research is an important part of Historical and Theoretical Studies assessment.

See STUDY SKILLS - WRITING A RESEARCH PROPOSAL and STUDY SKILLS - ANNOTATED BIBLIOGRAPHY PAGES.


See BA2 CLASS READING FOR 3/10/13 - CHRISOPHER KANE'S FLOWERS

This collection was about flowers. "But when I say flowers – I'm not going to do, you know, roses, done to death, blah blah blah." Instead, it was "the sexual undertones of flowers", of anatomy and deflowering, which formed the starting point for the clothes. A visit to his Scottish high school brought back memories of art classes spent dissecting, examining and drawing buttercups and carnations. "I started thinking about how much we take flowers for granted, and how incredible they are, and how the female sexual organs have so much in common with the internal structure of a flower. When I was growing up, my mum always used 'flower' as her word for vagina – it's a Scottish thing. I prefer sex to be an undertone in my clothes, rather than too obvious, so I was interested in how flowers are graphic but concealed and suggestive at the same time." . (Cartner-Morley, 2013).

It is all about sex...

Shunga from this week's Guardian:


Although shunga, meaning "spring picture" or "pillow picture", was a mainstream artistic genre for several centuries, enjoyed by ordinary townspeople as well as aristocrats, it was suppressed in the 20th century when Japan opened up to the west and the country went through an accelerated "modernisation".

At that point, instead of being regarded as a part of the texture of everyday life, presented to brides upon their marriages for instruction, arousal or amusement, shunga "was treated like pornography",
 (Higgins, 2013).


Picture
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Shunga_-_Vulvae.jpg

Japanese vulva prints. 



BA3


See STUDY SKILLS - 7 STRUCTURAL MODELS FOR WRITING and STUDY SKILLS - ORIGINAL RESEARCH REPORT STRUCTURE PAGES.

Remember the importance of referencing:

Lohaidan's strong endorsement of the ban demonstrates how entrenched the opposition is to women driving among some conservative Saudis.

"If a woman drives a car, not out of pure necessity, that could have negative physiological impacts as functional and physiological medical studies show that it automatically affects the ovaries and pushes the pelvis upwards," he told Sabq. "That is why we find those who regularly drive have children with clinical problems of varying degrees."


He did not cite specific medical studies to support his arguments.
(Reuters, 2013b).


Remember the importance of developing your own ideas.

David Bowie booklist from this week's Guardian:

As the Guardian's Alexis Petridis pointed out at the time, the Bowie story is so well-known that "unless it's content to retell a very hackneyed story indeed, David Bowie Is has to find a way of casting new light on some of the most over-analysed and discussed music in rock history." (Bury, 2013).

CONCLUSION

Quote of the Week

He often found, when he concentrated really hard on what someone was saying, that nothing much went in. (Hollinghurst, 2011, p.263).

WHAT HAVE YOU LEARNED?

WHAT HAVE I LEARNED?



I would rather be in Venice. 


Bon voyage BA2.

REFERENCES


Bury, L. (2013b) 'David Bowie's must-read books revealed', Guardian 1 October [Online] http://www.theguardian.com/books/2013/oct/01/david-bowie-books-kerouac-milligan (Accessed 2 October 2013).

Cartner-Morley, J. (2013) 'Christopher Kane revels in the "sexual undertones of flowers" for fashion week', Guardian 17 September [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/sep/16/christopher-kane-london-fashion-week-flowers (Accessed 17 September).



Campbell, A. (2013) ' "Mental patient" fancy dress shows how deeply offensive stereotypes go in society', Guardian 26 September [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2013/sep/26/mental-patient-fancy-dress-mental-health-stigma (Accessed 27 September 2013).

Firmin, C. (2013) 'Myths about victims of sexual abuse can deny young people a voice', Guardian 24 September [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/society/2013/sep/24/myths-victims-sexual-abuse-deny-voice (Accessed 25 September 2013).



Higgins, C. (2013) 'British Museum dares to bare with adults-only art display', Guardian 1 October [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2013/oct/01/british-museum-shunga-explicit (Accessed 2 October 2013).



Hollinghurst, A. (2011) The stranger’s child. London: Picador.


Lott, T. (2013c) 'Dad fashion and why it matters', Guardian 28 September [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2013/sep/27/dad-fashion-matters-tim-lott (Accessed 1 October 2013).

Reuters (2013a) 'Women have come a long way, but still have far to go, says report', Guardian 24 September [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2013/sep/24/womens-rights-progress-world-bank-report (Accessed 25 September 2013).


Reuters (2013b) 'Saudi Arabian cleric says female drivers risk damaging ovaries', Guardian 29 September [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/world/2013/sep/29/saudi-arabia-women-drivers-ovaries (Accessed 1 October 2013).

Smithers, R. and Jones, S. (2013) 'Tesco removes "Psycho Ward" boiler suit costume after consumer anger',Guardian 26 September [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2013/sep/26/tesco-withdraws-psycho-ward-costume-complaints (Accessed 27 September 2013).

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BA1 and 2 INTRODUCTION TO COURSE PROGRAMME

25/9/2013

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AIMS

  1. To introduce Weebly site.
  2. To introduce the importance of fashion and critical debate (current Muslim veil news story).
  3. To introduce course programme.

1. WEEBLY SITE

Weekly announcements on the home/announcements page.

Course information, project briefs, study skills pages.

Quote of the Week/News Story of the Week as a quick guide to referencing.

My reflective journal and research blog.

Theory classes blog.

2. THE IMPORTANCE OF FASHION (MUSLIM VEIL)

News stories from research blog all showing different perspectives on the muslim veil in court debate.


Picture









Muslim dress allowed in court


The woman's barrister, Susan Meek, said she was entitled to wear the niqab under the section of the European convention on human rights relating to religious beliefs.

"She is entitled to wear it in private and in public," Meek said. "That right to wear the niqab also extends to the courtroom. There is no legislation in the UK in respect of the wearing of the niqab. There is no law in this country banning it." 
(Walker, 2013).



Picture
Minister calls for veil debate


Browne said he was "instinctively uneasy" about restricting religious freedoms, but said there may be a case to act to protect girls who were too young to decide for themselves whether they wished to wear the veil or not. (Press Association, 2013b).


Picture
There are more important things than the veil


It is worth noting Muslims make up only around 4.8% of the UK population – and it has been estimated that only a tiny percentage of that population veils their face. (Cochran, K. 2013).


Is the European response to the veil 'medieval'? 

In contemporary debates, the full-face veil is frequently presented as a medieval practice. And yet, in a supreme irony, the contemporary European response to the full-face veil can itself be seen as "medieval".(Malik, 2013).

It is a woman's choice to wear a veil

"I think it's for women to make a choice about what clothes they wish to wear, if they wish to wear a veil that is for a woman to make a choice." (May in the Press Association, 2013c).


Picture




Niqab wearers art not mainstream


This is an incredibly niche issue: the number of women who wear the niqab at all are "pretty few and far between", said Shahin Ashraf, the Muslim chaplain at the University of Birmingham. The number of niqabis who are required to give evidence in court (pace the landmark ruling this week that witnesses had to remove the veil to give evidence) is minuscule; ditto, the number of doctors who wear a veil and won't ever remove it. (Williams, 2013c).


3. COURSE PROGRAMME

BA1

Term 1 is an introduction to key names and movements in western fashion history. Famous names and general ideas are presented in order to highlight the importance of historical and technical knowledge as a start to learning.


Term 2 develops a more thematic approach. Concepts relevant to contemporary fashion are presented in order to highlight the importance of social and theoretical knowledge as a development to learning.


Picture
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paul_Poiret


Paul Poiret and Orientalism


Picture
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denim


Skinny jeans and fashion and identity


BA2

BA2 Historical and Theoretical Studies will consider current issues for debate within contemporary fashion and textiles.  Students will work in small groups to present group seminars.



Picture









Fashion and society


Dolce & Gabbana's Sunday afternoon show in Milan was the first since the designers were convicted of tax evasion. And far from shying away from their legal predicament, the designers took the opportunity to turn money troubles into clothes.

Coins appeared as a motif throughout the collection, which had an ancient world theme. They were on prints on bell-sleeved dresses, in a centurion-style shift dress and on sandals, earrings and belts – all set to sell by the bucketload to women who love such luxury trinkets.
(Cochrane, 2013).



CONCLUSION

You are expected to be beginning your own independent research now!

But don't worry no work is due in until December...

Advice for new students from Freshers' Week


http://bcottextilesforfashion.weebly.com/2/post/2013/09/society-scrapbook-adavice-for-students-on-how-to-concentrate.html


WHAT HAVE YOU LEARNED?

WHAT HAVE I LEARNED?

Don't work too hard. 

I have lost my job in London and plan to go swimming and do yoga instead...

http://bcottextilesforfashion.weebly.com/2/post/2013/09/fashion-scrapbook-get-swimming.html



REFERENCES

Burkeman, O. (2013) 'Advice for students: how to concentrate',Guardian 23 September [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/education/2013/sep/23/advice-students-how-to-concentrate (Accessed 24 September 2013).

Cochrane, K. (2013) 'The niqab debate: "Is the veil the biggest issue we face in the UK?" ', Guardian 16 September [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/world/2013/sep/16/veil-biggest-issue-uk-niqab-debate (Accessed 17 September 2013).

Cochrane, L. (2013) 'Dolce & Gabbana turn tax evasion into fashion inspiration', Guardian 22 September [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2013/sep/22/dolce-gabbana-tax-evasion-inspiration (Accessed 23 September 2013).

Malik, M. (2013) "Full-face veils aren't barbaric - but our response can be',Guardian 17 September [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2013/sep/17/full-face-veil-not-barbaric-debate-muslim-women (Accessed 18 September 2013).

May in the Press Association (2013) 'Wearing veil should be the woman's choice, says Theresa May', Guardian 17 September [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/world/2013/sep/17/veil-womans-choice-theresa-may (Accessed 18 September 2013).

Smith in Fox, I. (2013) 'Great lengths: 10 fashionistas share their swimming routines', Guardian 20 September [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/sep/20/fashionistas-swimming-routines (Accessed 21 September 2013).

Walker, P. (2013) 'Judge allows Muslim woman to wear niqab in court', Guardian 12 September [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/world/2013/sep/12/judge-allows-muslim-woman-wear-niqab (Accessed 13 September 2013).

Williams, Z. (2013) 'Lifting the veil: do we all have to dance to UKip's tune?' Guardian 20 September [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/theguardian/2013/sep/20/zoe-williams-veil-niqab-personal-choice (Accessed 21 September 2013).

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