BA1 - COCO CHANEL AND MODERNISM

QUOTE OF THE WEEK
http://quoteoftheweekblog.tumblr.com

NEWS STORY OF THE WEEK
http://newsstoryoftheweekblog.tumblr.com

AIMS

1. To develop small group work.
   
2. To introduce Coco Chanel and Modernism (new materials, new style, simplification of form).
   
3. To introduce the democratization of fashion. 
   
4. To introduce body image.

Pinterest visuals

http://www.pinterest.com/pcourtenay1/ba1-theory-coco-chanel-and-modernism/

BUT BEFORE ANYTHING HERE IS AN EXAMPLE OF A REFLECTIVE BLOG

tumblr.com/blog/katycruickshankreflective

1. SMALL GROUP WORK -EXTENDING THE QUOTE OF THE WEEK


IN PAIRS CONSIDER THE FOLLOWING QUOTES


WHAT DO THEY SAY ABOUT READING?

“None of these books agree with each other.” (Bradbury, 2008, p.52).

And I thought about books. And for the first time I realised that a man was behind each one of the books. A man had to think them up. A man had to take a long time to put them down on paper. (Bradbury, 2008, pp.68-69).

“Do you know that books smell like nutmeg or some spice from a foreign land? ” (Bradbury, 2008, p.106).

“Books can be beaten down with reason.” (Bradbury, 2008, pp.109-110).

'“What traitors books can be! You think they're backing you up, and they turn on you. Others can use them, too, and there you are, lost in the middle of the moor, in a great welter of nouns and verbs and adjectives.” (Bradbury, 2008, p.139).

2. COCO CHANEL AND MODERNISM 


MODERNISM - NEW MATERIALS

Eiffel Tower 1889

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Modernism is an umbrella term for a number of movements united in their rejection of historicism during the early 20th century. Modernists embraced progress and sought to enhance human experience of the modern age by breaking with the past ... (Mackenzie, 2009, pp.74-75).

Rayon

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Jersey

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In addition, new comfortable fluid fabrics in a neutral palette of navy, black, beige and grey were utilised. (Mackenzie, 2009, pp.74-75).

TODAY'S NEW MATERIALS AND TECHNOLOGY FROM MY RESEARCH BLOG


http://bcottextilesforfashion.weebly.com/2/post/2013/07/design-scrapbook-3d-printer-available-in-high-street.html

MODERNISM - NEW STYLE

Coco Chanel with bobbed hair, 1920

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Chanel evening dress, 1925

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This new androgynous style was christened the 'garconne' look and dominated fashion until 1929. Hemlines were raised significantly, peaking in 1926 at just below the knee; waistlines dropped towards the hips; hair was bobbed, shingled or even cropped ... (Mackenzie, 2009, pp.74-75).

MODERNISM - SIMPLIFICATION OF FORM

Chanel dress, 1927

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She is credited with introducing the 'little black dress' and promoting the principle of simplicity as elegance. (Mackenzie, 2009, pp.74-75). 

Chanel dress, 1924

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COMPARE CHANEL TO CHARLES WORTH

Worth wedding dress, 

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COMPARISON OF UNDERWEAR HIGHLIGHTS SIMPLIFICATION OF FORM

Victorian corset, 1880s

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Chemise, 1920s

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SIMPLIFICATION OF FORM IN ARCHITECTURE

Bauhaus building, 1920s

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3. DEMOCRATIZATION OF FASHION

MASS MARKET

In keeping with the spirit of Modernism, and aided by the development of rayon and the simple shapes of the garments, rapid dissemination of styles was made possible. What was shown in the couture salons was soon readily available to the mass market via copy houses or paper patterns. (Mackenzie, 2009, pp.74-75).

BUT

Chanel jacket detail

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Chanel deviated from the elitist nature of haute couture both by creating a 'working-class look' through her choice of non-luxuriant fabric - her inspiration being drawn primarily from working-class male attire - and by embracing a philosophy of copying and mass production, which denied exclusiveness and uniqueness. ...

she aimed to create an image of middle-class informality rather than emphasising the affectations of the upper classes, yet her garments were consistently priced in a bracket far above the economic means of the average working girl. ... Despite the apparent lack of what Veblen (1965) refers to as 'conspicuous consumption' in her garments, hems were always hand-rolled and weighted chains were inserted into the backs of the jackets. When she dressed her clients in garments of austere simplicity, she would then heap strands of costume jewellery around their necks, on their wrists, hands and ears. (English, 2013, p.41).

SEE ALSO WILLIAM MORRIS (HAND MANUFACTURE - V - SOCIALISM)

William Morris textile, 1880s

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4. BODY IMAGE

1920s CHANGE IN STYLE ALTERED IDEAS OF FEMALE FORM 

The new fashion demanded a radical shift in the ideal female form and women endeavoured to become lithe and youthful with a flat bust, no hips and a childlike slenderness. Corsets were replaced by roll-on, reinforced 'flattners' and dieting was vigorously promoted as the best way to achieve a fashionable physique. (Mackenzie, 2009, pp.74-75).

FROM THE BODY IMAGE SCRAPBOOK ON MY RESEARCH BLOG


http://bcottextilesforfashion.weebly.com/2/post/2013/11/body-image-scrapbook-the-thigh-gap.html


http://bcottextilesforfashion.weebly.com/2/post/2013/11/body-image-scrapbook-size-16-mannequins.html

CONCLUSION


CONTEMPORARY CHANEL AS POSTMODERNISM

Whereas Modernism was characterised by logic, simplicity, a break from history and functionality, the Postmodern age dispensed with linearity in favour of eclecticism, parody and cultural hybridity (Mackenzie, 2009, p.122).

FROM MY RESEARCH BLOG


http://bcottextilesforfashion.weebly.com/2/post/2013/10/fashion-scrapbook-chanel-at-paris-fashion-week-includes-slideshow.html

Chanel autumn/winter 13/14 

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WHAT HAVE YOU LEARNED?


WHAT HAVE I LEARNED?


Get a system. Finishing this at 6.53am this morning was much easier because I know what i am doing...

REFERENCES

Bradbury, R. (2008) Fahrenheit 451. London: Harper Collins.

Cochrane, L. (2013) 'Chanel at Paris fashion week: a cool collection inspired by art', Guardian 1 October [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/oct/01/paris-fashion-week-chanel-show-karl-lagerfeld-art (Accessed 2 October 2013).

English, B. (2013) A cultural history of fashion in the 20th and 21st centuries. 2nd edn. London: Bloomsbury.


Halliday, J. (2013) 'Debenhams to display size 16 mannequins across UK stores', Guardian 6 November [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/business/2013/nov/06/debenhams-first-department-store-size-16-models (Accessed 11 November 2013).

Mackenzie, M. (2009) …Isms understanding fashion. New York: Universe. 

Neville, S. (2013) 'First 3D printer reaches high street', Guardian 8 July [Online]. Available at: http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/2013/jul/08/maplin-high-street-first-3d-printer (Accessed 9 July 2013).


Swash, R. (2013) ' How the "thigh gap" became the latest pressure point on a woman's self-image', Guardian 3 November [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2013/nov/03/thigh-gap-pressure-point-women-self-esteem (Accessed 7 November 2013).