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      • PROJECT BRIEF - GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION - NON-ASSESSED
      • PROJECT BRIEF - RESEARCH PRESENTATION 1 - ANNOTATED BIBLIOGRAPHY AND RESEARCH PROPOSAL needs visuals
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  • BA1 CLASS READINGS AND VISUALS
    • BA1 CLASS READINGS - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATIONS >
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      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - CONSUMER CULTURE (BEAU BRUMMELL) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION (THE PERSONAL ONE)
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - TRICKLE-DOWN/BUBBLE-(TRICKLE)-UP (JEANS) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION (THE EASY ONE)
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - GENDER AND SEXUALITY (STILETTOS) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION (THE SEXY ONE)
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    • BA1 CLASS VISUALS - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY >
      • BA1 CLASS VISUALS - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - CONSPICUOUS CONSUMPTION (THE REGULATION OF FASHION)
      • BA1 CLASS VISUALS - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - CONSUMER CULTURE (BEAU BRUMMELL)
      • BA1 CLASS VISUALS - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - TRICKLE-DOWN/BUBBLE-(TRICKLE)-UP (JEANS)
      • BA1 CLASS VISUALS - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - SEMIOTICS (STILETTOS)
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    • BA1 CLASS READINGS - INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES AND CULTURE GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATIONS >
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES AND CULTURE - THE FABRIC OF EXISTENCE (TEXTILES IN HUMAN CONSCIOUSNESS) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES AND CULTURE - THE TIES THAT BIND (SOCIAL MEANINGS) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES AND CULTURE - CLOTH AND TEMPORAL POWER (MONEY, TRADE, STATUS AND CONTROL) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES AND CULTURE - CLOTH AS COMMUNICATION (MEANING, MESSAGES AND BEAUTY) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES AND CULTURE - TEXTILES AND THE SPIRIT (SACRED, SPIRITUAL AND HEALING SIGNIFICANCE) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
  • BA2 CLASS READINGS AND VISUALS
    • BA2 CLASS READINGS - FASHION IN SOCIETY GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATIONS >
      • BA2 CLASS READING - FASHION IN SOCIETY - VEILING GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - FASHION IN SOCIETY - THE SECOND HAND MARKET GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - FASHION IN SOCIETY - FEMINISM AND FASHION GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - FASHION IN SOCIETY - HOMOSEXUAL FASHION GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - FASHION IN SOCIETY - JAPANESE STREET FASHION GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - FASHION IN SOCIETY - FASHION IN INDIA GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
    • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - FASHION IN SOCIETY >
      • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - FASHION IN SOCIETY - THE SECONDHAND MARKET
      • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - FASHION IN SOCIETY - JAPANESE STREET FASHION
      • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - FASHION IN SOCIETY - INDIAN FASHION
    • BA2 CLASS READINGS - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATIONS >
      • BA2 CLASS READING - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - WEAVING AS POLITICAL SYMBOL (YOU ARE GOING TO LOVE THIS ONE) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - THE SUBVERSIVE STITCH GROUP SEMNAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - GANDHI AND KHADI CLOTH GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - THE FEMALE TRADITION OF TEXTILES GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - KNITTING AS ART GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
    • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY >
      • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - WEAVING AS POLITICAL SYMBOL
      • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - THE FEMALE TRADITION OF TEXTILES
      • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - THE SUBVERSIVE STITCH
  • BA3 CLASS READINGS
    • BA3 CLASS READING - THE FIVE STAGES OF REFLECTIVE WRITING
  • THEORY READINGS AND VISUALS (GENERAL REFERENCE TO SUPPORT YOUR RESEARCH)
    • THEORY READING - WHY STUDY FASHION?
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    • THEORY READING - TEXTILE METAPHORS
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    • FICTION READING - ELIZABETH JANE HOWARD'S 'THE BEAUTIFUL VISIT'
    • FICTION READING - ANITA BROOKNER'S 'PROVIDENCE'
    • FICTION READING - RUMER GODDEN'S 'BLACK NARCISSUS'
    • FICTION READING - THE BROTHERS GRIMMS' 'HOW SOME CHILDREN PLAYED AT SLAUGHTERING'
    • FICTION READING - THOMAS HARDY'S 'JUDE THE OBSCURE' - THE PIG SLAUGHTERING (NOT FOR VEGETARIANS OR THE FAINTHEARTED)
    • FICTION READING - THE BROTHERS GRIMMS' 'RUMPELSTILTSKIN'
    • FICTION READING - GREEK MYTHOLOGY'S 'THESEUS AND THE MINOTAUR'
    • FICTION READING - GREEK MYTHOLOGY'S 'PROKNE AND PHILOMELA'
    • FICTION READING - DAWN FRENCH'S 'A TINY BIT MARVELLOUS'
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    • MATHS READING - PI (FOR GEEKS)
    • MATHS READING - ON LABOUR'S PROPOSAL TO MAKE MATHS COMPULSORY POST-16 (HE'S GOT A POINT)
    • MATHS READING - WHY WE NEED PYTHAGORAS (WHAT DOES LILY ALLEN KNOW?) ​
    • MATHS READING - FORMULA FOR WORKING OUT AGATHA CHRISTIE WHODUNNIT (I THOUGHT THIS WAS AN APRIL FOOL)
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    • MATHS READING - WRITER SHIRLEY CONRAN'S MATHS EBOOK FOR GIRLS (I FAILED MATHS TWICE)
    • MATHS READING - RELATIVITY VERSUS QUANTUM MECHANICS (I ACTUALLY UNDERSTOOD SOME OF THIS)
    • MATHS READING - WHY WE SHOULD ALL LEARN COMPUTER CODING (VERY LONG... IF YOU MANAGE TO GET TO THE END OF IT I WILL BUY YOU A DRINK)
    • MATHS READING - DO WE REALLY NEED MATHS? (SAYS IT ALL)
    • MATHS READING - THE 'BEAUTY' OF EINSTEIN (I LOST THE WILL TO LIVE)
  • MY RESEARCH BLOGS AND RESEARCH PINTEREST
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  • ARE YOU STRESSED?
    • ARE YOU STRESSED? - WRITERS' BLOCK
    • ARE YOU STRESSED? - MANAGING STRESS
    • ARE YOU STRESSED? - PINTEREST FOR STRESS
  • TO DO
  • REFERENCES
  • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES - GLOBAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL
    • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES PROGRAMME - GLOBAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL
    • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES PROJECT BRIEF - GLOBAL FASHION AND TEXTILE MANUFACTURING REPORT 2014-15
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    • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES CLASS - THE ALTERNATIVE PROJECT BRIEF
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  • THE REFERENCING TEST
  BCOT BA Textiles for Fashion
Historical and Theoretical Studies theory classes and readings.

BA1 - COCO CHANEL AND MODERNISM

14/11/2013

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QUOTE OF THE WEEK
http://quoteoftheweekblog.tumblr.com

NEWS STORY OF THE WEEK
http://newsstoryoftheweekblog.tumblr.com


AIMS


  1. To develop small group work.
  2. To introduce Coco Chanel and Modernism (new materials, new style, simplification of form).
  3. To introduce the democratization of fashion. 
  4. To introduce body image.


Pinterest visuals

http://www.pinterest.com/pcourtenay1/ba1-theory-coco-chanel-and-modernism/

BUT BEFORE ANYTHING HERE IS AN EXAMPLE OF A REFLECTIVE BLOG

tumblr.com/blog/katycruickshankreflective



1. SMALL GROUP WORK -EXTENDING THE QUOTE OF THE WEEK


IN PAIRS CONSIDER THE FOLLOWING QUOTES


WHAT DO THEY SAY ABOUT READING?


“None of these books agree with each other.” (Bradbury, 2008, p.52).


And I thought about books. And for the first time I realised that a man was behind each one of the books. A man had to think them up. A man had to take a long time to put them down on paper. (Bradbury, 2008, pp.68-69).


“Do you know that books smell like nutmeg or some spice from a foreign land? ” (Bradbury, 2008, p.106).



“Books can be beaten down with reason.” (Bradbury, 2008, pp.109-110).


'“What traitors books can be! You think they're backing you up, and they turn on you. Others can use them, too, and there you are, lost in the middle of the moor, in a great welter of nouns and verbs and adjectives.” (Bradbury, 2008, p.139).



2. COCO CHANEL AND MODERNISM 


MODERNISM - NEW MATERIALS

Picture









Eiffel Tower 1889


Modernism is an umbrella term for a number of movements united in their rejection of historicism during the early 20th century. Modernists embraced progress and sought to enhance human experience of the modern age by breaking with the past ... (Mackenzie, 2009, pp.74-75).

Picture
Rayon


Picture
Jersey


In addition, new comfortable fluid fabrics in a neutral palette of navy, black, beige and grey were utilised. (Mackenzie, 2009, pp.74-75).


TODAY'S NEW MATERIALS AND TECHNOLOGY FROM MY RESEARCH BLOG


http://bcottextilesforfashion.weebly.com/2/post/2013/07/design-scrapbook-3d-printer-available-in-high-street.html


MODERNISM - NEW STYLE

Picture

Coco Chanel with bobbed hair, 1920

Picture
Chanel evening dress, 1925


This new androgynous style was christened the 'garconne' look and dominated fashion until 1929. Hemlines were raised significantly, peaking in 1926 at just below the knee; waistlines dropped towards the hips; hair was bobbed, shingled or even cropped ... (Mackenzie, 2009, pp.74-75).


MODERNISM - SIMPLIFICATION OF FORM

Picture

Chanel dress, 1927


She is credited with introducing the 'little black dress' and promoting the principle of simplicity as elegance. (Mackenzie, 2009, pp.74-75). 

Picture
Chanel dress, 1924


COMPARE CHANEL TO CHARLES WORTH

Picture
Worth wedding dress, 


COMPARISON OF UNDERWEAR HIGHLIGHTS SIMPLIFICATION OF FORM

Picture
Victorian corset, 1880s


Picture
Chemise, 1920s


SIMPLIFICATION OF FORM IN ARCHITECTURE

Picture
Bauhaus building, 1920s


3. DEMOCRATIZATION OF FASHION

MASS MARKET

In keeping with the spirit of Modernism, and aided by the development of rayon and the simple shapes of the garments, rapid dissemination of styles was made possible. What was shown in the couture salons was soon readily available to the mass market via copy houses or paper patterns. (Mackenzie, 2009, pp.74-75).


BUT

Picture
Chanel jacket detail


Chanel deviated from the elitist nature of haute couture both by creating a 'working-class look' through her choice of non-luxuriant fabric - her inspiration being drawn primarily from working-class male attire - and by embracing a philosophy of copying and mass production, which denied exclusiveness and uniqueness. ...

she aimed to create an image of middle-class informality rather than emphasising the affectations of the upper classes, yet her garments were consistently priced in a bracket far above the economic means of the average working girl. ... Despite the apparent lack of what Veblen (1965) refers to as 'conspicuous consumption' in her garments, hems were always hand-rolled and weighted chains were inserted into the backs of the jackets. When she dressed her clients in garments of austere simplicity, she would then heap strands of costume jewellery around their necks, on their wrists, hands and ears. (English, 2013, p.41).




SEE ALSO WILLIAM MORRIS (HAND MANUFACTURE - V - SOCIALISM)
Picture
William Morris textile, 1880s

4. BODY IMAGE

1920s CHANGE IN STYLE ALTERED IDEAS OF FEMALE FORM 

The new fashion demanded a radical shift in the ideal female form and women endeavoured to become lithe and youthful with a flat bust, no hips and a childlike slenderness. Corsets were replaced by roll-on, reinforced 'flattners' and dieting was vigorously promoted as the best way to achieve a fashionable physique. (Mackenzie, 2009, pp.74-75).


FROM THE BODY IMAGE SCRAPBOOK ON MY RESEARCH BLOG


http://bcottextilesforfashion.weebly.com/2/post/2013/11/body-image-scrapbook-the-thigh-gap.html


http://bcottextilesforfashion.weebly.com/2/post/2013/11/body-image-scrapbook-size-16-mannequins.html



CONCLUSION


CONTEMPORARY CHANEL AS POSTMODERNISM

Whereas Modernism was characterised by logic, simplicity, a break from history and functionality, the Postmodern age dispensed with linearity in favour of eclecticism, parody and cultural hybridity (Mackenzie, 2009, p.122).

FROM MY RESEARCH BLOG


http://bcottextilesforfashion.weebly.com/2/post/2013/10/fashion-scrapbook-chanel-at-paris-fashion-week-includes-slideshow.html


Picture
Chanel autumn/winter 13/14 


WHAT HAVE YOU LEARNED?


WHAT HAVE I LEARNED?



Get a system. Finishing this at 6.53am this morning was much easier because I know what i am doing...


REFERENCES

Bradbury, R. (2008) Fahrenheit 451. London: Harper Collins.

Cochrane, L. (2013) 'Chanel at Paris fashion week: a cool collection inspired by art', Guardian 1 October [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/oct/01/paris-fashion-week-chanel-show-karl-lagerfeld-art (Accessed 2 October 2013).

English, B. (2013) A cultural history of fashion in the 20th and 21st centuries. 2nd edn. London: Bloomsbury.



Halliday, J. (2013) 'Debenhams to display size 16 mannequins across UK stores', Guardian 6 November [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/business/2013/nov/06/debenhams-first-department-store-size-16-models (Accessed 11 November 2013).

Mackenzie, M. (2009) …Isms understanding fashion. New York: Universe. 

Neville, S. (2013) 'First 3D printer reaches high street', Guardian 8 July [Online]. Available at: http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/2013/jul/08/maplin-high-street-first-3d-printer (Accessed 9 July 2013).



Swash, R. (2013) ' How the "thigh gap" became the latest pressure point on a woman's self-image', Guardian 3 November [Online]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2013/nov/03/thigh-gap-pressure-point-women-self-esteem (Accessed 7 November 2013).
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