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  • BA1 CLASS READINGS AND VISUALS
    • BA1 CLASS READINGS - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATIONS >
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - CONSPICUOUS CONSUMPTION (THE REGULATION OF FASHION) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION (THE HISTORICAL ONE)
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - CONSUMER CULTURE (BEAU BRUMMELL) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION (THE PERSONAL ONE)
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - TRICKLE-DOWN/BUBBLE-(TRICKLE)-UP (JEANS) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION (THE EASY ONE)
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - GENDER AND SEXUALITY (STILETTOS) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION (THE SEXY ONE)
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    • BA1 CLASS VISUALS - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY >
      • BA1 CLASS VISUALS - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - CONSPICUOUS CONSUMPTION (THE REGULATION OF FASHION)
      • BA1 CLASS VISUALS - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - CONSUMER CULTURE (BEAU BRUMMELL)
      • BA1 CLASS VISUALS - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - TRICKLE-DOWN/BUBBLE-(TRICKLE)-UP (JEANS)
      • BA1 CLASS VISUALS - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - SEMIOTICS (STILETTOS)
      • BA1 CLASS VISUALS - INTRODUCTION TO FASHION THEORY - SEMIOTICS (TIES)
    • BA1 CLASS READINGS - INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES AND CULTURE GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATIONS >
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES AND CULTURE - THE FABRIC OF EXISTENCE (TEXTILES IN HUMAN CONSCIOUSNESS) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES AND CULTURE - THE TIES THAT BIND (SOCIAL MEANINGS) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES AND CULTURE - CLOTH AND TEMPORAL POWER (MONEY, TRADE, STATUS AND CONTROL) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES AND CULTURE - CLOTH AS COMMUNICATION (MEANING, MESSAGES AND BEAUTY) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES AND CULTURE - TEXTILES AND THE SPIRIT (SACRED, SPIRITUAL AND HEALING SIGNIFICANCE) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
  • BA2 CLASS READINGS AND VISUALS
    • BA2 CLASS READINGS - FASHION IN SOCIETY GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATIONS >
      • BA2 CLASS READING - FASHION IN SOCIETY - VEILING GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - FASHION IN SOCIETY - THE SECOND HAND MARKET GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - FASHION IN SOCIETY - FEMINISM AND FASHION GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - FASHION IN SOCIETY - HOMOSEXUAL FASHION GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - FASHION IN SOCIETY - JAPANESE STREET FASHION GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - FASHION IN SOCIETY - FASHION IN INDIA GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
    • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - FASHION IN SOCIETY >
      • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - FASHION IN SOCIETY - THE SECONDHAND MARKET
      • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - FASHION IN SOCIETY - JAPANESE STREET FASHION
      • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - FASHION IN SOCIETY - INDIAN FASHION
    • BA2 CLASS READINGS - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATIONS >
      • BA2 CLASS READING - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - WEAVING AS POLITICAL SYMBOL (YOU ARE GOING TO LOVE THIS ONE) GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - THE SUBVERSIVE STITCH GROUP SEMNAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - GANDHI AND KHADI CLOTH GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - THE FEMALE TRADITION OF TEXTILES GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
      • BA2 CLASS READING - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - KNITTING AS ART GROUP SEMINAR PRESENTATION
    • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY >
      • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - WEAVING AS POLITICAL SYMBOL
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      • BA2 CLASS VISUALS - TEXTILES IN SOCIETY - THE SUBVERSIVE STITCH
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    • BA3 CLASS READING - THE FIVE STAGES OF REFLECTIVE WRITING
  • THEORY READINGS AND VISUALS (GENERAL REFERENCE TO SUPPORT YOUR RESEARCH)
    • THEORY READING - WHY STUDY FASHION?
    • THEORY READING - WHAT IS A THEORY?
    • THEORY READING - INTRODUCTION TO BA1 FASHION THEORY
    • THEORY READING - FASHION CYCLES (CONSPICUOUS CONSUMPTION, TRICKLE-DOWN/UP/ACROSS)
    • THEORY READING CLASS VISUALS - FASHION CYCYES (CONSPICUOUS CONSUMPTION, TRICKLE-DOWN/UP/ACROSS)
    • THEORY READING - KEY TERMS IN FASHION THEORY
    • THEORY READING - TEXTILE METAPHORS
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    • FICTION READING - ANITA BROOKNER'S 'PROVIDENCE'
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    • FICTION READING - THE BROTHERS GRIMMS' 'HOW SOME CHILDREN PLAYED AT SLAUGHTERING'
    • FICTION READING - THOMAS HARDY'S 'JUDE THE OBSCURE' - THE PIG SLAUGHTERING (NOT FOR VEGETARIANS OR THE FAINTHEARTED)
    • FICTION READING - THE BROTHERS GRIMMS' 'RUMPELSTILTSKIN'
    • FICTION READING - GREEK MYTHOLOGY'S 'THESEUS AND THE MINOTAUR'
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    • FICTION READING - DAWN FRENCH'S 'A TINY BIT MARVELLOUS'
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    • MATHS READING - WRITER SHIRLEY CONRAN'S MATHS EBOOK FOR GIRLS (I FAILED MATHS TWICE)
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    • MATHS READING - WHY WE SHOULD ALL LEARN COMPUTER CODING (VERY LONG... IF YOU MANAGE TO GET TO THE END OF IT I WILL BUY YOU A DRINK)
    • MATHS READING - DO WE REALLY NEED MATHS? (SAYS IT ALL)
    • MATHS READING - THE 'BEAUTY' OF EINSTEIN (I LOST THE WILL TO LIVE)
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  • TO DO
  • REFERENCES
  • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES - GLOBAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL
    • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES PROGRAMME - GLOBAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL
    • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES PROJECT BRIEF - GLOBAL FASHION AND TEXTILE MANUFACTURING REPORT 2014-15
    • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES CLASS - GLOBAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL - INTRODUCTION TO CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY
    • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES CLASS - THE ALTERNATIVE PROJECT BRIEF
    • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES CLASS - GLOBAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL - PEST AND CSR
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    • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES CLASS READING - GLOBAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL - ENVIRONMENTAL
    • BA2 BUSINESS STUDIES CLASS READING - GLOBAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL - ETHICAL
  • THE REFERENCING TEST
  BCOT BA Textiles for Fashion
Historical and Theoretical Studies theory classes and readings.

BA1 CLASS READING - INTRODUCTION TO THEORY - FASHION CYCLES - this reading is extracts (...) from the set text. 


CHAPTER 3 - FASHION CYCLES, SYMBOLS AND FLOWS, FROM FASHION - THE KEY CONCEPTS. JENNIFER CRAIK. 2009.


One of the most difficult things to explain about fashion is how and why different styles become popular and then fall out of favour. ... 

... we introduce the three most commonly cited fashion theories that have developed in the social sciences. These are:

The trickle-down theory associated with Thorstein Veblen (1899), Georg Simmel (1904), and Grant McCracken (1985)
The collective behaviour model of Herbert Blumer (1969)
The six-stage general fashion theory of George Sproles (1985)

Each of these theories explores fashion as part of a wider system in which cycles of fashion (how certain styles come round again and again) fit into the broader social structure and underpin the way in which individuals locate themselves as social beings within their cultural context. Common to the three theories is the investigation of how fashions move from the trendsetters to arbiters of fashion and then are taken up by wider sections of the population. Trickle-down theory explores how a style adopted by the elite is emulated by those who revere the style setters. The collective behaviour model proposes that there is an unconscious consensus that emerges within a group to adopt a certain look, which is then adopted more generally, while the six-stage theory identifies a general theory of invention, popularisation, obsolescence, and renewal that occurs on a cyclical basis.

The Trickle-Down Theory Of Fashion



The trickle-down theory ... emerged with debates about the nature of class society. Initially associated with the spread of fashion from royalty to the aristocracy and middle classes, trickle-down theory came to epitomise the development of capitalist society. Fashion became a mechanism to display class difference through an adoption of new styles of dress that differentiated the elite from the mass. However, as new styles were popularised and copied by the masses in a trickle-down process, the elite felt impelled to conjure up a new style that maintained their distinctiveness. ...


... Veblen characterised this process in terms of the desire of the elite to look visibly different by way of extravagant purchases (conspicuous consumption), and to equally visibly reject outdated fashions in a display of conspicuous waste, ...


However, critics argue that the theory is much too rooted in a notion of class differentiation, which is only one impulse toward fashionable behaviour ...


Nor can it explain fashions that emerge from below and are adopted by the elite (the bubble-up or trickle-up theory - see Polhemus 2007:327-31). In this reversal of the theory, it is argued that some fashions and styles originate among the non-elite or subcultures but are adopted by the elite. The case of blue jeans ... is exemplary here. A garment marketed to miners and other blue-collar workers as durable and practical was adopted by rebel youths and popular musicians. In turn, jeans became the uniform of young people and gradually were adopted by older people too. ...


The Collective Behaviour Model of Fashion


In contrast to the top-down theory, Herbet Blumer argued that, rather then the elite setting fashion trends, fashion emerged from a collective desire to be 'in fashion' through the articulation of a sense of taste at a given moment and endorsement of certain styles and looks over others. In this way, a fashion emerges from the collective unconscious of a culture rather than being imposed from above in a process of collective selection. ...


While Blumer acknowledged the difficulty of explaining how this collective mood and sense of taste are actualised, his theory placed fashion in the hands of the masses rather than the elite ...


This theory is useful as a broad-brush theory that can explain societal trends in fashion but is less useful for explaining why some fashions take off and others don't ...


The Six-Stage General Fashion Theory


By contrast, a number of sociologists of fashion have adopted (and adapted) George Sprole's six-stage general fashion theory ... which accounts for the various points of the fashion system, including the development, popularisation, decline, and replacement of a particular fashion or style. ...


George Sprole's Six-Stage Fashion Process Integrating Sociological, Economic, and Psychological Factors


1. Invention of fashion through market or social norms
2. Endorsement and adoption by elites and celebrities
3. Diffusion of the fashion through the fashion conscious
4. Take-up of fashions by non-fashionable groups
5. Transformation of fashion from novelty to symbol of the times; simultaneous experimentation with new fashions
6. Obsolescence of existing style and start of new phase (Sproles 1985; see also Kunz 1996:320) ...


Davies (1992: 123-58) collapses these stages into five stages: invention, introduction, fashion leadership increasing social visibility, and waning ... Again, it is a broad theory that explains general trends and cycles of fashionability, but not deviations from fashion norms or new stylistic inventions that usher in a new fashion era or sensibility. (Craik, 2009, pp.105-109).

REFERENCE

Craik, J. (2009) Fashion - the key concepts. Oxford: Berg.

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